** WATKINS MOUNTAINS **

FIRST ASCENTS of UNCLIMBED PEAKS
Make first ascents of the highest unclimbed mountains in the Arctic!      SECOND ASCENT of JULIA 3455m
The most beautiful mountain in the Watkins ranges

At 3693m Gunnbjørnsfjeld is the highest mountain in the Arctic and is often referred to as the "8th summit" amongst those wishing to add to their 7 summits challenge. With only two or three ascents each year it is a very rarely visited mountain and is only ever climbed by groups organised by Tangent Expeditions or using our logistics services. But what very few know are the wealth of other beautiful summits located throughout the region, in particular the site of our 2010 first ascents expedition; the Upper Woolley Glacier.

This 28km long stretch of glacier is lined on both sides with numerous wonderful summits, some unclimbed. With an average width of over 4kms it's upper half then branches in to five further glaciers, each of around 8-10km in length and each surrounded again by at least 10 further peaks and summits. In total there are over 75 clearly distinguishable peaks, of which a number are still unclimbed. In the past 6 years there has been just one expedition to visit this region in 2006. Prior to this Tangent organised and led a series of expeditions that explored the area and made many first ascents throughout. Tangent Expeditions holds the only full and complete record of all known ascents of these peaks. As well as first ascents the expedition will make the 2nd ascent of Julia 3455m, the most beautiful mountain in the region. The team will also make the sixth ascent of Mound 3609m, the fourth highest peak in the Arctic, having not been climbed since May 2000. If time and conditions allow an attempt may be made on Ajungilak 3549m, the fifth highest mountain in the Arctic. This will be the fourth ascent of this mountain, having not received an ascent since June 1998.

All peaks are largely non technical ascents within the alpine grade F-PD. Specific details regarding the first ascents will be sent to clients once a confirmed booking has been received. Ajungilak is graded PD+/AD- by it's easiest route.

Few people have ever set foot in this most beautiful region of the upper Woolley glacier. Travel throughout the area will be on alpine, nordic or Telemark skis, whichever individuals feel most comfortable with. All peaks can be reached by easy ski tours to the base and then onward and upward on foot.  Mound can be skied right to and from the summit! A great opportunity to make Arctic mountaineering history. The Watkins Mountains are without doubt the most impressive ranges of large arctic summits, peaks, cliffs and massifs in Greenland. Ski touring potential, and ski descent opportunities, are both fantastic!

Tangent Expeditions is the leading authority on mountaineering expeditions to Gunnbjornsfjeld and the Watkins Mountains, having arranged 55 previous expeditions to the Watkins and surrounding mountain ranges. No other guiding company is running, or has run, expeditions to these summits for the last several years due to very high overheads for private aircraft charter. However it has always been our commitment to clients to continue running trips on minimal margins to allow people to appreciate the true and awe inspiring beauty of this region.

The Only Guiding Company for the Watkins Mountains!

Despite the occasional advert, no other guiding company has yet organised an expedition to any of the peaks in the Watkins Mountains since 1999. This is partly due to the spiraling costs of mounting such a one off expedition to this remote region of the Arctic, but also the lack of in depth knowledge and expertise that Tangent holds. With the use of our ski equipped Twin Otter aircraft, Tangent remains the ONLY company offering guaranteed expeditions to these peaks. This is possible by linking together the complex flight logistics of several of our expeditions in a manner that makes our expeditions much more cost effective. We also operate on much lower margins than other companies in our mission to provide fantastic Arctic mountaineering experiences at affordable prices. We hear from many clients who've been climbing in Antarctica before, comment on how Greenland is far greater value for money, yet equally comparable for the sheer scale, awe and wonder of the place.

Flight Logistics

The group will meet in Reykjavik on the expedition start date before taking an internal flight to Isafjørdur in NW Iceland the next morning. We will meet up here with our advance shipment of expedition goods and fly the same day over the ice filled Denmark Straits direct to the upper Woolley Glacier base camp in east Greenland. The final part of the flight offers unparalleled views of literally thousands of unclimbed summits stretching as far as the eye can see. An amazing sight as the anticipation and excitement builds in preparation for the glacier landing. Due to the payload restrictions it is only possible to fly with 4 people on one flight and so two flights will be made for a group of 7-8 team members. For a group of 5-6 people the aircraft will fly via Constable Point in east Greenland for re-fuelling.

Base camp

Base camp will be at the Twin Otter aircraft landing site at the foot of the north ridge of Ajungilak. Position N68'51 W29'24. Altitude 2600m.

Access Strategy

Upon arriving at the Woolley base camp, Day 1 will be spent acclimatizing and going through equipment and safety procedures. A short ski journey will be undertaken to check that everybody's skis and skins are in order. The following day a recce ski ascent will be made up the approach glacier between Mound and Ajungilak. This will allow us to assess snow conditions on the glacier and evaluate the routes up both these and other surrounding peaks. Depending on weather and the fitness and experience of the group it is likely that one rest day will be taken before an attempt will be made on the first peak, likely to be Mound. It is possible to ski all the way to the summit and the 1000m ski descent will allow us to assess the ski ability range within the group for future peaks and descents. From base camp several first ascents are within reach as single day ascents, as well as Julia and several other fine summits awaiting a second ascent. Plenty to choose from and all with between 600-1000m of ascent over a distance of 3-6km. Perfect day ascents. There will be no requirement to move base camp during this expediton.

Daylight Hours

There will be 24 hour daylight and the Midnight Sun throughout this expedition.

Weather

The Watkins Mountains typically enjoy good periods of stable weather during May and June and base camp is quite well sheltered and rarely receives strong winds. We would normally expect snowfall once or twice in a 2 week expedition but conditions can range from no snowfall at all up to 40cm over a few days. The sun is very strong and day time / night time temperatures will range from +10 to -20 degrees C. As a dry cold, and with little wind, it usually feels significantly warmer than the air temperature suggests. Our latest 2009 expeditions experienced continuous blue skies and calm weather throughout. This resulted in our final ascent of Dome being made during the night (though still light) when the temperatures were more comfortable.

Level of Camping

The expedition will involve camping in snow conditions on a permanently snow covered glacier. During periods of snowfall it will sometimes be necessary to 'dig out' your tent and maintain good overall camp organisation and camp craft skills. In contrast, on warm calm days it will be possible to easily sit, chat and wash outside, dry wet/washed clothing and sunbathe! Spring camping in the Watkins Mountains is generally very easy and strong winds are rarely a feature! Individuals and tent pairs will be expected to cook their own food as tent teams.

Experience Required

Ascents of all peaks will involve full day ski tours and ski ascents/descents which will typically be of around 8-12 hours depending on ski ability. The ascents will involve easy angle ski ascents/descents on large glaciers where crevasses can usually be avoided. The team will travel largely unroped on the main access glaciers where there is no need to cross crevasses. The final few hundred metres of each ascent will be on foot and involve mainly moving together on easy slopes with the occasional rope length of grade 1 (40 degree) slopes. The team will be carrying ropes and suitable protection to safe guard any steeper sections. No rock climbing experience is required. There is no requirement to join the group on all ascents. Skiing ability should be such that you are able to confidently descend blue ski runs. Alternatively show shoes can be used, though not ideal. Alpine touring (Randonee), Nordic mountain touring, Telemark, and split board ski equipment are all suitable for this expedition.

Extreme Clothing

There is no requirement for more specific extreme clothing other than normal Scottish winter or summer alpine clothing and boots. This should of course include windproof jackets and trousers/salopettes and rigid sole mountaineering boots capable of taking a step-in crampon. A lightweight insulated down jacket is useful for sitting outside in the evenings and for on the hill but is by no means essential.

Equipment Provision

Tangent will provide Snowsled pulk sledges, North Face tents, snow pegs, floor insulation, MSR stoves, lightweight plywood stove boards, fuel bottles, fuel cans, fuel funnels, stove spares kits, lighters, pans, white gas fuel, food, toilet paper, maps & aerial reconnaissance photos, GPS, group survival shelter, snow shovels, emergency flares, PLB (emergency locator beacon), rifle & ammunition (Polar Bear deterrent), VHF air band radio, walkie talkie radios, satellite telephone & solar re-charging system, emergency flares, base camp medical kit, mountain first aid kit, general spares and repair kit, client prussik loops, ropes & all snow/ice climbing and crevasse rescue equipment for security on steep ground and glacier travel, general spares and repair kit.

Clients will need to provide their own large rucksack/travel bag, 55+ litre daysack, sleeping bag suitable for -20'c, inflatable sleeping mattress (& repair kit), foam sleeping mattress, water/windproof jacket and trousers, suitable ski touring/Telemark/split board skis and boots (or snowshoes), ski poles, skins, spare skin glue, avalanche transceiver, avalanche probe, crampons, full winter clothing, insulated jacket (optional), expedition gloves/hat/balaclava, 100% UV sun glasses, 100% UV snow goggles, 1 litre metal flask, 1 litre water bottle, eating/drinking cup/bowl/utensils, pee (toilet) bottle, multi-tool knife, harness, helmet, 5 x screwgate karabiners, ice axe & hammer, GPS (optional), compass.

Insurance

We can arrange insurance with our partners P J Hayman. Please contact our office for latest details.

Leader

The expedition leader will be IFMGA Mountain Guide Phil Poole. Phil is a regular Tangent guide and has led many expeditions to Greenland for Tangent since 2003, having run his own alpine mountain guiding company for many years before that. Phil has led two previous expeditions to the Watkins Mountains as well as to Liverpool Land, Milne Land, Kangerdlugssuaq, Knud Rasmussen Land, and as mountain guide and safety officer for the Tangent led Kronborg Glacier US Navy Air Crash Recovery Expedition in 2004. In the same year Phil summited GBF via the SW ridge on 27th May, along with Dome on 1st June and Cone on 4th June, before guiding the team to a first ascent of the un-named p.3421m and a second ascent of Outpost 2848m. In 2009 he climbed all three peaks yet again, making two ascents of Gunnbjørnsfjeld. He is currently World Safety Officer for the international outdoor management training company "Impact". Phil has extensive Antarctic experience and spent time as Training Officer for the British Mountain Guides association. You may have also seen him guiding Gryff Rhys Jones up Napes Needle for a TV documentary!

Personal Service - all prospective clients are welcome to visit us at our home in Cumbria or Paul Walker will travel to any part of the mainland UK free of charge to meet with you and discuss the expedition in more detail and show you maps and photographs. We believe this benchmark service is offered by no other expedition travel company and supports our commitment to providing an ultimate level of high quality personal service.

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