** ARCTIC TRILOGY **

GUNNBJØRNSFJELD, DOME AND CONE (Watkins Mountains)
Climb the 3 highest mountains in the Arctic!  
Plus a First Ascent
                                        
Join Arctic explorer and BBC presenter Paul Rose in making rare ascents of all three highest mountains in the Arctic ... Gunnbjørnsfjeld (3693m), Dome (3682m) and Cone (3669m).

Gunnbjornsfjeld is often referred to as the "8th summit" amongst those wishing to add to their 7 summits challenge. Only Tangent Expeditions holds the full and complete record of all known ascents of these peaks. Following success on the primary objectives we will guide you to one of the last few remaining unclimbed summits in the area.

During the second phase of our expedition we will shift emphasis to making a first ascent of one of the few remaining highest unclimbed peaks in the Arctic (c.3500m). It will be a largely non technical ascent within the alpine grade PD and is as yet un-named. Specific details will be sent to clients once a booking has been received.

A great opportunity to still make Arctic mountaineering history. The Watkins Mountains are without doubt the most impressive ranges of large arctic summits, peaks, cliffs and massifs in Greenland. Ski touring potential is fantastic!

 

Tangent Expeditions is without doubt the leading authority on mountaineering expeditions to Gunnbjornsfjeld and the Watkins Mountains, having arranged 25 previous expeditions to these peaks, and a further 30 expeditions to the surrounding mountain ranges. No other guiding company is running, or has run, expeditions to these summits for the last several years due to very high overheads for private aircraft charter. However it has always been our commitment to clients to continue running trips on minimal margins to allow people to appreciate the true and awe inspiring beauty of this region.

The Only Guiding Company for the Watkins Mountains!

Despite the occasional advert, no other guiding company has yet organised an expedition to any of the peaks in the Watkins Mountains since 1999. This is partly due to the spiraling costs of mounting such a one off expedition to this remote region of the Arctic, but also the lack of in depth knowledge and expertise that Tangent holds. With the use of our ski equipped Twin Otter aircraft, Tangent remains the ONLY company offering guaranteed expeditions to these peaks. This is possible by linking together the complex flight logistics of several of our expeditions in a manner that makes our expeditions much more cost effective. We also operate on much lower margins than other companies in our mission to provide fantastic Arctic mountaineering experiences at affordable prices. We hear from many a client who's been climbing in Antarctica before, comment on how Greenland is far greater value for money, yet equally comparable for the sheer scale, awe and wonder of the place.

Flight Logistics

The group will meet in Reykjavik on the expedition start date before taking an internal flight to Isafjørdur in NW Iceland the next morning. We will meet up here with our advance shipment of expedition goods and fly the same day over the ice filled Denmark Straits direct to Gunnbjørnsfjeld base camp in east Greenland. The final part of the flight offers unparalleled views of literally thousands of unclimbed summits stretching as far as the eye can see. An amazing sight as the anticipation and excitement builds in preparation for the glacier landing. Due to the payload restrictions it is only possible to fly with 4 people on one flight and so two flights will be made for a group of 7-8 team members. For a group of 5-6 people the aircraft will fly via Constable Point in east Greenland for re-fuelling.

Base camp

Base camp will be at the Twin Otter aircraft landing site at the foot of access glacier leading up to the SW ridge of Gunnbjørnsfjeld. Position N68'56 W29'43. Altitude 2180m.

Access Strategy

Upon arriving at Gunbjørnsfjeld base camp, Day 1 will be spent acclimatizing and going through equipment and safety procedures. A short ski journey will be undertaken to check that everybody's skis and skins are in order. The following day a recce ski ascent will be made to a position halfway up the access glacier, in a natural bowl at 2850m, where a depot of climbing equipment will be made. The group will then ski back down to base camp checking the snow descent conditions and the ski ability of the team. Depending on weather and the fitness and experience of the group it is likely that one rest day will be taken before an attempt will be made on the peak. The depot of equipment will be collected en route to aid easier progress during the first half of the ski ascent. It is likely the team will arrive at the col just below the summit ridge after approximately 6-7 hours. From an altitude of 3400m the team will switch to crampons and roping up for the ascent of the SW ridge. Under normal conditions it should be possible to move together throughout the ascent, with the possible placing of occasional running belays on one steeper section (one or two rope lengths). The whole ascent and return to base camp should take between 11 and 13 hours.

Base camp will then be moved several kilometers to an advance base camp between Dome and Cone. From this location both peaks can be climbed as day ascents before returning to the main base camp. If time and conditions allow, a further ascent will be made of one of the few remaining unclimbed peaks in the area.

Daylight Hours

There will be 24 hour daylight and the Midnight Sun throughout this expedition.

Weather

The Watkins Mountains typically enjoy good periods of stable weather during May and June and base camp is quite well sheltered and rarely receives strong winds. We would normally expect snowfall once or twice in a 2 week expedition but conditions can range from no snowfall at all up to 40cm over a few days. The sun is very strong and day time / night time temperatures will range from +10 to -20 degrees C. As a dry cold, and with little wind, it usually feels significantly warmer than the air temperature suggests. Our latest 2009 expeditions experienced continuous blue skies and calm weather throughout. This resulted in our final ascent of Dome being made during the night (though still light) when the temperatures were more comfortable.

Level of Camping

The expedition will involve camping in snow conditions on a permanently snow covered glacier. During periods of snowfall it will sometimes be necessary to 'dig out' your tent and maintain good overall camp organisation and camp craft skills. In contrast, on warm calm days it will be possible to easily sit, chat and wash outside, dry wet/washed clothing and sunbathe! Spring camping in the Watkins Mountains is generally very easy and strong winds are rarely a feature! Individuals and tent pairs will be expected to cook their own food as tent teams.

Experience Required

Ascents of all three highest peaks will involve full day ski tours and ski ascents/descents which will typically be of around 10-12 hours depending on ski ability. The ascents will involve easy angle ski ascents/descents on large glaciers where crevasses can usually be avoided. The team will travel largely unroped on the main access glaciers where there is no need to cross crevasses. The final few hundred metres of each ascent will be on foot and involve mainly moving together on easy slopes with the occasional rope length of grade 1 (40 degree) slopes. The team will be carrying ropes and suitable protection to safe guard any steeper sections. No rock climbing experience is required. There is no requirement to join the group on all ascents. Skiing ability should be such that you are able to confidently descend blue ski runs. Alternatively show shoes can be used. Alpine touring (Randonee), Nordic mountain touring, Telemark, and split snowboard ski equipment are all suitable for this expedition.

Extreme Clothing

There is no requirement for more specific extreme clothing other than normal Scottish winter or summer alpine clothing and boots. This should of course include windproof jackets and trousers/salopettes and rigid sole mountaineering boots capable of taking a step-in crampon. A lightweight insulated down jacket is useful for sitting outside in the evenings and for on the hill but is by no means essential.

Equipment Provision

Tangent will provide Snowsled pulk sledges, North Face tents, snow pegs, floor insulation, MSR stoves, lightweight plywood stove boards, fuel bottles, fuel cans, fuel funnels, stove spares kits, lighters, pans, white gas fuel, food, toilet paper, maps & aerial reconnaissance photos, GPS, group survival shelter, snow shovels, emergency flares, PLB (emergency locator beacon), rifle & ammunition (Polar Bear deterrent), VHF air band radio, walkie talkie radios, satellite telephone & solar re-charging system, emergency flares, base camp medical kit, mountain first aid kit, general spares and repair kit, client prussik loops, ropes & all snow/ice climbing and crevasse rescue equipment for security on steep ground and glacier travel, general spares and repair kit.

Clients will need to provide their own large rucksack/travel bag, 55+ litre daysack, sleeping bag suitable for -20'c, inflatable sleeping mattress (& repair kit), foam sleeping mattress, water/windproof jacket and trousers, suitable ski touring/Telemark/split board skis and boots (or snowshoes), ski poles, skins, spare skin glue, avalanche transceiver, avalanche probe, crampons, full winter clothing, insulated jacket (optional), expedition gloves/hat/balaclava, 100% UV sun glasses, 100% UV snow goggles, 1 litre metal flask, 1 litre water bottle, eating/drinking cup/bowl/utensils, pee (toilet) bottle, multi-tool knife, harness, helmet, 5 x screwgate karabiners, ice axe & hammer, GPS (optional), compass.

Insurance

We can arrange insurance with our partners P J Hayman. Please contact our office for latest details.

Leader

The expedition leader will be Paul Rose, an experienced Greenland guide who's led several previous Tangent ice cap crossing expeditions and led our successful 2002 Watkins Mountains expedition. Paul led our first trip to climb the rarely ascended north ridge route and summited GBF on 2nd June 2002. He then led the team to make the first ascent of one of the highest unclimbed arctic summits, Paul's Mirage 3350m, which lies just to the north of GBF, followed by a first ascent of Jubilee Peak 3206m climbed on the Queen's 50th Jubillee on 3rd June. He made the first ascent of the twin summits of Mt Eggars 2824m and several repeat ascents of other peaks. Paul has huge Antarctic experience and is better known nowadays for his BBC TV documentary work on climate change and for the recent landmark series "Oceans".

Personal Service - all prospective clients are welcome to visit us at our home in Cumbria or Paul Walker will travel to any part of the mainland UK free of charge to meet with you and discuss the expedition in more detail and show you maps and photographs. We believe this benchmark service is offered by no other expedition travel company and supports our commitment to providing an ultimate level of high quality personal service.

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